Kotgarh - The Apple Valley

In my journey through India I have been amazed at all the produce and crops produced here. From cotton to coffee, sugarcane to tea, to the heaps of fruit - pomegranates, bananas. pineapple, mangoes - just to name a few. I have even learned about a new fruit or two - the awkwardly looking but sweet-tasting jackfruit and the king of fruit the durian. 

Today we have been graced with cherry and apple orchards. I think of New England Fall when apples come to mind. Warm days leading into crisp nights and the changing color of leaves. In India, orchards are found on terraced fields carved out of the steep hillsides. Netting covers the trees to protect from hail, creating a silkworm looking effect across the mountains. In the early 19th century, Samuel Stokes, a missionary from America, introduced apples to Kotgarh and today they are the dominant crop of the region. 

06.14.14

Kotgarh, Himachal Pradesh, India

8:27am

Apple orchard landscape of Kotgarh. 

An evening visit to an apple and cherry orchard. A Nepalese family minds the orchard, sells the fruit to the landowner who then has the it transported overnight to Delhi. 

Freshly picked cherries to eat. 

Freshly picked cherries for delivery. 

A reminder to slow down on the mountain roads of Kotgarh. 

Kicking Off the Great Himalayan Ride

It is as if time hasn't past. 

It has been nearly three months since I cycled to the most southern point in India. Since March I have been circumnavigating the Bay of Bengal waiting for the snow to melt in the Himalayas before returning. And while a lot has happened since 19 cyclists pulled into Kayankumari, it is amazing how quickly you fall back into a routine and it feels familiar again. From putting out your riding kit and packing up your bag the night before to riding up to the lunch set-up of cheese (in a can!)/crackers/vegetables/fruits just as you are thinking it would be good to have a bite to eat to the feeling of satisfaction of a good ride when you jump into the shower and the dust and dirt melt away under the stream of water. It is almost like going home. 

Beyond the terrain, the biggest change to this trip is the bike I am riding. I've opted to ride a front suspension mountain bike this time around. No more jarring up both ends of my body, with a sole focus on finding the best line to ride. I have handlebar ends that stick up so I can view the world that is passing by better and gears that will allow me to spin up mountains. What a difference it makes! 

Setting off from Shimla. 

Smooth dirt roads and daisies in bloom. 

There are quintessential to-do's in our Indian cycling tour. Chai stops, a visit to the barber. Simon has sampled many a chai hut across India to determine who serves the best cup. And it wouldn't be India if he still had his hair. 

Just a little bit more luxury before we head deeper into the mountains. The Oberoi Wildflower. 

 

06.12.14

Oberoi Shimla, Shimla, India 

8:01am

06.13.14

Oberoi Wildflower, Chharabra, India

8:53am

Entering the World of Oberoi

Shimla was the jumping off point for the next section of my Indian Adventure. From the Dharamsala bus station, I was seen off by a group of young Punjabi men who had taken it as their mission to make sure I was on the correct bus. It all started with a photograph and the next thing I knew I had 4 bodyguards and a free ride down to the bus station from McLeod Ganj. We communicated through a smattering of English words. They knew just enough to ask "Do you like Sikh men?" "Sure" I reply as I looked at the four men smiling at me. "I mean was there really any other answer" I thought to myself. We quicly discovered the common like for Punjabi music and before I knew it an earphone was handed to me and favoriite songs played from a cellphone. To the beat of the music made popular in the West by the likes of Jay-Z, we wound our way down the mountain as the bus kicked up a cloud of dust in its trail and the sun set over the Dhauladhars. 

9 hours later I arrive to the once summer capital of the British Raj. At 2,270m (7,450ft), 500m (1,640ft) higher than McLeod Ganj, the next step in acclimation begins. I also have now entered the luxurious portion of the trip and step into the world of the Oberoi. The point is to experience it all, right? 

And more importantly, I haven't had a shower in 10 days and really appreciate running water from a showerhead by this point. The choice of pillow to rest my head isn't bad either. 

Reunited with two of my cycling cohorts from our first India Adventure trip, we spend over 2 hours at breakfast catching up. Long gone are the TdA grab-and-go affairs. The endless cup of espresso and the view was hard to beat as well. 

Time to explore the Shimla hills by bike. 

Meeting the locals and making new friends when I can. 

Reunited! It is time to climb some hills. 

06.11.14

7:41pm

Shimla, India

Teacher Marta

English conversation class became a part of my daily afternoon routine in Dharamsala. Students ranged in nationalities - Tibetan, Vietnamese, Bhutanese and Thai. In groups of 5-6 people, monks, nuns and laypeople discussed topics such as social networks, advertising and boys versus girls. Occasionally my own knowledge of English grammar was tested and I would be asked "What is a noun? An adjective?" Or the one I actually couldn't recall top of mind (9th grade grammar class was 20+ years ago!) "What is an adverb?" "Very good question" I replied as I quickly google searched to make sure I had it correct. Now to come up with a sentence as an example - eek!

Students would ask me questions about where I was from and what it was like, jotting down words they didn't know and looking up translations on their smartphones or iPad. The range of ability varied dependent upon how long they had been in McLeod Ganj. Some freshly landed within the last 1-2 months to others who knew the ropes after a couple of years. Common among them to seek a better life and the desire to learn and practice English. An amazing group of people!

06.10.14

Shimla, India

8:11am

A topic was posted each class with a set of questions. We would go around the circle and each student would answer. Then each student would have to get up in front of the class and answer a question of their choice. They each began with "Hello. My teacher's name is Marta and she is from America." 

This round table method was a great way from them to not only practice their English but also hear different view points. The most interesting was when it came to what do you think about men staying at home and they were fastinated to hear of the trend (new word!) of stay-at-home dads. 

Thank you boys and keep up the great work!

Tibetan Home Stay

How does one find a home stay? I followed my nose. The lure of fresh baked goods was all it took and I was hooked. It was that simple. 

McLeod Ganj is full of cafés but there is one stop that can't be missed - the Tibet Quality Bakery. It is a glass enclosure prominently displaying the goodies just out of the oven and stands at eye level to the street. From muffins, to cakes, to bread and yak cheese deciding what to try first is the difficult part.  

I scan the case and my mind goes into a spin at all the choice. Names like Lhasa cookies, Stampa chocolate ball and McLeod Dream bar all sound enticing. "The Black Forest bar is my favorite" says the Australian man to his girlfriend standing next to me who has the same wide-eye, slightly overwhelmed look I have. I decide to go for the mango muffin and step up onto the platform to place my order. A head pops over the display case and says "Good choice." 

In my relieved state of knowing I have chosen wisely, I notice a sign for Tibetan home stays and inquire about it. "Yes, let me show you" says the man behind the case and I am at once shown to a staircase that leads into a home. To my delight it is the baker's home. We go down a hallway and he opens the door to a bedroom. "This would be your room." I glance over my shoulder and note the baking kitchen at the head of the hall. Waking up to the smell of pastries and muffins baking in the oven? Sounds perfect to me!

06.08.14

Dharamkot, India

11:01am

I love me a freshly baked cake. I just couldn't resist. 

Dorjee and his brother-in-law, Dhordup, begin baking at 4:30am, opening the shop at 9am and tending to it until 9pm. 

Surrounded by monasteries, in the evenings I come home to the sound of the gong and dinner being served.

A place to call home for 10 days. 

My favorite picture of Chuki, my Tibetan Mom. 

And of course there was Nancy!

Mountain Life

On my first trip to India, the longest I spent in one place was 3 nights. Pedaling from one place to another, you get to see a lot of things while at the same time getting a personal view of the people, landscape and culture. However, it is only after staying in one place for a week or longer that you can develop regular routines and fully become intimate with the place. Your presence begins to be expected and when things change it is noticed. 

During my second week in Dharamsala, my scheduled changed. My class started at 7am, finishing at 10:30am and after 3.5 hours of work, I craved a hearty meal. Making my way down the hill into Dharamkot and my regular post-yoga hangout, a man came up along side me and said "You are late." I, taken by surprise that he was talking to me and somewhat confused by his meaning, tried to figure out how to respond. I had been quiet proud of myself making it to the early morning class on time and had been patting myself on the back that I had made it through another day of stretching and twisting. All I could come up with was "I am?" "Yes you are usually here at 9:30am." Then it dawned on me, he must be one of the local townsmen/tuk-tuk drivers/shop keepers who hang out at the top of hill on the road between McLeod Ganj and Dharamkot. I am usually catching my breathe after the climb and taking a quick glance at my watch to see how much time I have before I am late to yoga. I pay no mind to the group of men hanging out, drinking chai. A "Namaste" might exchange, but as I am focused on not being late, I quickly make my way down the backside of the hill to the Center. "Ah yes" I respond "the time of my yoga class has changed."   

This morning as I reached the top of the hill and began to raise my hand to look at my watch, a man proclaimed in my direction "You come up here each morning but you never stop at my shop." This time not surprised that I would be recognized, I respond "I know but you are always on the way to somewhere, not that somewhere." He smiles. That is life in a small mountain village. 

06.07.14

McLeod Ganj, India

8:36am

Living with Monkeys

Monkeys are a part of the everyday landscape in India. In the mornings I need no alarm as at 5am the dogs start barking at the monkeys hopscotching their way across the trees outside my bedroom window. On my morning hike to Dharamkot, monkeys rustle in the trees above me and forge through the garbage left out overnight. During yoga, they dance across the tin roof drawing the dogs into hysterics. And as I return home in the evening, monkeys line the retaining wall keeping a watchful eye on those making their way up and down the hill in the twilight. 

I find they are one of the toughest images to get a good picture of. I have tried many times. Swinging from electrical wires, scaling temples with ease, cradling their young or finding the cans of tuna we have stored on top of the support van (which by the way they were most welcome to), the image is blurry, too far away or cut-off. 

At first I was memorized by them. My frame of reference is of cute, inquisitive Curious George that I got to know as a child. Or more recently, a highly intelligent primate featured on a National Geographic special. But what I have come to realize is they are the Indian equivalent to the raccoon.  

They are tame to the point of being aggressive at times. They tend to be destructive, especially to roofs, and, last but not least, they have WAY too much fun with the garbage. Well, I'll give them the last one as I have gotten one or two good laughs out of these dumpster divers.

06.06.14

McLeod Ganj, India

4:41pm

Mornings are a field day for these guys. At least the action is somewhat contained. 

This one was having the time of his life. He never came up for air!

I know monkeys are highly intelligent and some signs are universal, but I think the local merchants are living in hope on this one.